If you're looking for understated silhouettes, keep moving—you won't find them in Araks Yeramyan's Fall offering. But if slim sheaths are your cup of tea, chances are you're not looking at Araks to begin with. In her world, eccentric shapes, plus-size peplums, inflated sleeves, and generous tiers are the order of the day, and they've earned her a following from women who are happy to wear their quirks with pride.
This season, a serendipitous turn working on her parents' costumes for a clown-themed Halloween bash sent Yeramyan down an aesthetic rabbit hole, coming out the other side with a playful collection inspired by famed harlequins from Pierrot to those painted by Picasso. Clown costumes were stripped down to their essences and reconstructed. The trapeze silhouettes remained, and cheery polka dots appeared in Lurex jacquard. Floppy tiered collars escaped feeling costumey when seen atop a crisp, otherwise unadorned white button-down tunic. Even a ringmaster's coat found new life in blue buffalo check. Proportion and print were handled with flair; a paired sweater and skirt both seemed almost imperceptibly too long, and the result was a certain haphazard brand of uncool cool. Freehand lines from a Picasso painting were reinterpreted as a quietly off-kilter stripe on an asymmetrical frock. Elsewhere, on a skirt and blouse set, a pattern at first unintelligible quickly dissolved into the silhouettes of dozens of tiny birds. It's details like these that Yeramyan seems to delight in; it's hard for her viewer not to come along for the ride.