While BCBG Max Azria's twenty-fifth anniversary show wasn't a retrospective, designers Max and Lubov Azria did use the occasion to revisit many of the signatures they've developed over the years. "I can't believe it. Our first runway show feels like yesterday," said Lubov backstage. Graphic color-blocking, asymmetric hemlines, and mixed materials were just a few of the label's recognizable tropes in heavy rotation here. There was an emphasis on longer lengths and relaxed silhouettes, with kinetic midi skirts and culottes paired with knee-high boots, which gave the lineup a slight seventies vibe.
Taking advantage of the endless layering opportunities Fall permits, the Azrias piled each look up with blanket-stripe ponchos, oversize biker jackets (a lavender leather style was particularly appealing), and plenty of fur. The fuzzy stuff—pelts of all types including shearling, fox, raccoon, and rabbit—was featured on everything from statement-making outerwear to playful clutches that doubled as hand warmers (why hasn't anyone thought of that before?). Occasionally, the fur flew too much, as in the case of a massive, teased-out Mongolian that seemed like a Fendi diffusion. Eskimo coat aside, BCBG's milestone collection was carried out with the characteristic confidence that has defined the contemporary label as "bon chic, bon genre" for a quarter century and counting.