Many an editor would probably be happy to slip on a pair of the black suede flatform zip-up ankle boots sitting on a podium at today's Jil Sander Navy presentation. Clodhoppers, yes, but they looked polished, modern, and comfortably chic, as did much of the collection on display. In the past, Navy has commonly combined sportswear and traditional tailoring in single pieces. This season, the design team generally broke up those concepts, sending out mix-and-match separates that mostly highlighted one feature or the other. (A tuxedo-style Bermuda short hiding beneath a royal purple coat was an anomaly.)
At the more tailored end were jacquard dresses and skirts with diagonal pleats that gave them modernity and movement. There was more pattern than one expects from Navy, by way of blown-up houndstooth jacquard dresses and painterly checked pants in silk and velvety fine-wale corduroy. Those pieces got some graphic pop shown with little hooded zip-up jackets in felt-bonded neoprene. A rich orange version, its bracelet sleeves curved a little like a wetsuit's, recalled Nicolas Ghesquière's surfy-scuba days at Balenciaga. Those performance fabric pieces—there was a smooth-surfaced techno fleece sweatshirt in the same color—are likely winners, especially with Alexander Wang setting the tone for seriously sporty outerwear. But for such a tight collection, there was a little something for everyone. A classic coat in brushed black mohair had a beautifully furry texture and would look great with those suede booties.