In recent seasons, Jill Stuart has allowed herself to drift toward a more freewheeling, edgy look. Backstage before her Fall runway show, the designer described her muse this season as "a girl with attitude who likes to pick her clothes instinctively. She's massively unpredictable and boyishly poetic—an irregular beauty." Stuart worked with a variety of lush fabrics, including crystal-studded velvet, suede, and creamy satin, and didn't skimp on opulent furs; a standout coat combined beaver, rabbit, and mink. Stuart achieved a balance of sweet and sexy with a soft knit bodysuit worn underneath a leather wrap skirt, and exuded elegance with a silk turtleneck blouse (with trailing ties in back) paired with slim, tailored trousers.
The second half of the lineup consisted of the designer's signature party dresses, which seemed to get increasingly intricate with each model's exit. Thigh-grazing A-line styles came in specialty fabrications such as laser-cut wool felt accented with gunmetal sequins. Another strapless style featured allover embroidery and sparkly embellishment. Meanwhile, long, cozy coats and hooded capes cut from brushed mohair that had a lived-in, pilled effect were a high point. The look modeled by Drake Burnette—a strappy black and raspberry-colored coat—nicely encapsulated Stuart's message. While her sexy LBDs read bottle-service club, the quality outerwear displayed a downtown sophistication.