There was a real buzz in the air at Misha Nonoo's Fall runway show, and it was well deserved. This season, Nonoo played further with opacity and transparency, using the Louis Kahn-designed Kimbell Art Museum and its cycloid vaults washed in natural light as a starting point. Nonoo's sheer panels, which are becoming her signature, were used best on a pair of drop-waist trousers in navy waxed cotton, as well as a periwinkle coat—also with a drop waist and tapered bodice, a new silhouette for the designer—that was finished with an organza back pleat.
Ideas of dark and light emerged again in a series of pieces featuring interwoven hemlines, including a navy mesh dress coat and a pencil skirt in a dark ruby melton wool. Nonoo paid special attention to the inner construction of these hems, using a splicing technique to ensure there were no stitches showing on the exterior. "I think about the inside of a garment as much as I do the outside," she said backstage. It sort of explains her obsession with sheer organza, which leaves no room for stitching error. On the other end of the transparency spectrum were detachable fox collars. A white version popped against a charcoal plaid suit that shimmered slightly with gold thread.
Nonoo's digital prints undoubtedly sell well, so she included three—each made to feel current with a shock of acid color. But it's her fearlessness with texture and shape that gives her work electricity.