Sophie Theallet is not the only designer playing with asymmetry and collage effects and patchwork construction this season, and at first blush, her aesthetic would appear to invite that approach. No matter how polished, Theallet's clothes are never fussy—so why not throw a little ersatz into the mix? It turns out, though, that an extra touch of "off" can throw the whole loose-limbed, oh-so-French insouciance thing out of whack. But if the collection never quite found its usual cohesive groove, there were various individual looks here that were very good indeed. Those would include the taut leather-trimmed trousers and the floral print knits. Pretty much everything in the black-accented gold tweed was a winner too, a ruffled pencil dress in particular. And of course, Theallet can be relied on to slingshot a couple of gorgeous gowns down a runway; this season, the killer was the one in freckled devoré velvet, with a deep-dive neckline.