This season found Thakoon Panichgul looking to Patagonia, "its vivid and painterly landscapes," and the clothes required to thrive in them. It was a rewarding trip, especially after a Spring collection that left you feeling like Panichgul was a little bit lost. The look here was layered. A "turtleneck shoulder topper"—in essence, a fitted capelet—was stretched over the top half of a crisp white button-down worn with a flared hem skirt. A funnel-neck scarf topped a sleeveless dress. Irreverent and clever, Panichgul made you reconsider some things in your own closet. With a little imagination and a good pair of scissors, any number of languishing sweaters could be transformed into something akin to his shoulder toppers.
When Panichgul wasn't busy layering, he was synthesizing surprising elements. A dress that looked like two pieces was actually just one, yet still managed to convey the appealing ease of a sweater and skirt. And that wasn't the only trick of the eye. Panichgul ruched chiffon so it looked like fleece, then inset a panel of the stuff in an actual shearling jacket. Color, usually one of Panichgul's strengths, went missing at his last show, but it came roaring back gorgeously today. Fuchsia, cobalt, and aviator orange mingled with camel, navy, and black. A puffer coat embroidered with Technicolor blooms might not fly in the harsh conditions of Patagonia, but it would be a beacon on the streets of New York at this time next year.