Backstage before their Fall show, Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein, and Donna Kang recounted a "long weekend jaunt up to the Hudson River Valley," where they stayed in a restored barn with sixteen of their closest friends. "We were inside. We were drinking. We were eating," said Weiland. This warm memory of upstate New York guided their latest lineup. Eckstein added, "It's this quiet, rustic setting only an hour and a half away, but you really bring the city with you. You want to relax, but you can't really because you live here." The result was a collection that felt a little bit country, and a little bit rock 'n' roll.
Weiland and co. kicked things off with a series of forest green checked pieces—including kicky pleated skirts and a cute cross-front dress—that put a flirty spin on the woody theme. A pretty variation on this look paired a wine-hued silk top with a tonal leather skirt that came in a deep shade of Bordeaux. (Speaking of wine, Timo Weiland was recently announced as a winner of this year's Ecco Domani prize—yet another seal of approval for the label that also graduated from the CFDA incubator this week.) In recent seasons, the designers have come to understand what's selling now and what the label does best—casual luxury with a fashion-forward twist. That was accomplished with a striped tweed tuxedo coat, cozy Ottoman knits, and a practical puffer coat that boasted a shearling hood and leather sleeves. At times, it felt like there was an attempt to address too many trends at once with metallic leather, artisan fringe, and painterly polka dot prints all sharing the runway. On the other hand, a smoky shearling leather biker jacket tossed over a wispy chiffon dress nicely exemplified the kind of cool femininity that the Timo Weiland designers are capable of creating.