The big news from Yeohlee Teng this season is the introduction of a new menswear capsule. It's a natural expansion for the designer, who has created one-off pieces for pals such as Costume Institute curator Harold Koda, and already offers several unisex items (including a best-selling rain jacket sold at the Neue Galerie) in each collection. "I've had many requests and some demands from male architect friends and designer friends, so I was compelled to do something," Teng said before her Fall Yeohlee show. Another impetus for launching Yeohlee Men's was the location of the brand's recently opened Manhattan store on 29th Street, just down the street from the swanky Ace Hotel. "I have a lot of cool-looking guys popping by, and I thought it would be good to capture that audience," she said. Teng just might succeed at drawing in those hip guys—especially if they're eco-conscious—with her new range of efficiently cut, zero-waste basics such as slim black jackets, Velcro duffle coats, and jersey slacks. Many of her masculine looks were shown alongside corresponding outfits for the girls. She sent out a pair of blood red toppers cut from boiled wool bonded with faux shearling. With its practical hood and curved hem, the women's style was a bit more convincing than the men's.
Teng's work is often influenced by the arts, and this time around she referenced the De Stijl abstract movement as a jumping-off point. A peach-colored brocade skirtsuit printed with graphic, bifurcating stripes tapped into this inspiration, as did the standout finale look, a silk crepe evening set featuring a scratchy "bird's nest" pattern, which was finished off with a sparkly paisley tuxedo jacket. The lineup could've been a bit more cohesive overall, but broken down, there were plenty of terrific separates here.