The Yves Saint Laurent pre-fall collection was an extension of the austere, mostly monochrome experiments in volume Stefano Pilati has been working on since last Fall. That was quite apparent in the rounded shapes, double-faced fabrics, and shades of gray and black. What's new, Pilati said, is the effort to mimic super-luxurious materials in less expensive fabrics—like a papery lizard print that appeared on everything from an evening column to georgette scarves, or raw-edged chiffon intended to suggest fur. Not that the genuine article has gone missing—there were shaved astrakhan jumpers, too. But with this transitional season, Pilati is mindful that fashion is going to have to get smarter about the making—and selling—of luxury.