One season, Jean Paul Gaultier is channeling Captain Jack Sparrow; the next, he's thinking about Aztec rulers. He loves a runway theme, but there were none to study at his low-key showroom presentation for pre-fall. What you noticed, instead, were the Gaultier-isms, all of which looked great: a satin wrap dress with an asymmetrical, bra strap-exposing neckline; the kilt trousers paired with a crisp double-breasted jacket; a high-drama aubergine trench dress with a slit up to there. And on the racks: cashmere marinière sweaters knit every which way and one sharp-looking coat after another. We weren't surprised to hear that the collection is attracting renewed interest from retailers; this was Gaultier at his real-world best.