"Half-tucked" was the phrase Rachel Comey threw out to describe a breezy dress from her Pre-Fall 2014 offering, but it seemed an apt description for much of the collection, which bore all the hallmarks of Comey's signature nonchalant cool. While some pieces were literally half-tucked, like a blousy chiffon top, others simply embodied that certain undone spirit beloved of the designer's fan base.
Comey's Pre-Fall woman? "She's a little sneaky. You feel like she's kind of up to something. She's got a sweetness, but she's also got a devilish side." And indeed, there was a certain cheeky femininity to the clothes. A vintage poodle wallpaper print (in black or coral) might have felt saccharine, but when seen on flowing gowns with slits and lace paneling galore? The effect certainly wasn't bobby-soxer. Elsewhere, a powder-pink skirt suit felt more House of Yes than straight-up Jackie O. But fans of Comey's utilitarian leanings won't be disappointed. There was a generous dose of seventies appeal; a Western-inspired boxy wool coat in paprika would look every bit as fitting on a young Dennis Hopper as on Comey's usual clientele. For each separate in a brazen metallic floral jacquard, there was a counterpart in easy sand-washed silk, deep indigo denim, or creamy flannel. The aforementioned poodle-print pieces will be nicely grounded by strong shoe offerings in masculine shapes and borrowed-from-the-boys-club kiltie details. A collection so diverse is sure to bring some new fans into the Comey fold.