There's been a new movement toward ease in fashion, with designers favoring cozy fabrics and relaxed silhouettes. This season, Sonia Rykiel creative director Geraldo da Conceicao latched onto these current ideas, which have always been a part of the house's DNA, and cranked up the intensity. "I was thinking about a modern dandy who also has something rakish about her," he said at a Pre-Fall presentation. The opening look, a fluffy pink turtleneck paired with ultra-slouchy, menswear-y trousers, nicely encapsulated this attitude.
Da Conceicao got playful with the label's signature sweaters, splashing intarsia crewnecks and cardigans with cheeky "text-speak" messages such as "smexi" (which means "smart and sexy") and "sweet tastic." Elsewhere, knits were piled on irreverently—some came draped around the neck like scarves—perhaps something that street-style favorite Ursina Gysi, who posed for the latest lookbook, might try. While some of the outerwear was a tad too engulfing (as in, "that's a nice shag rug you've got on"), those pieces were quickly forgotten alongside a beautiful fox-fur chubby and classic peacoats.