Nicolas Ghesquière said goodbye to globalism and futurism for resort and went retro instead. Some of the pieces, including a scarf-print silk strapless wrap dress, were influenced by Cristobal Balenciaga's archives. Others, like the tight, high-waisted trousers shown with a fitted boyish vest or a narrow jacket with peaked shoulders were vintage Ghesquièrebut with an exaggerated ankle flare for a seventies touch. A jersey cocktail number with coral embroidery and deep silver fringe (straight off Balenciaga's Fall runway) looked like a collector's item. For grand eveningsand cover shoots, no doubthe showed a strapless ivory gown with black lace underlayers and dramatic, gravity-defying panniers.