Donna Karan took a two-pronged approach to resort. By day, her clothes were almost sculptural in their volumesand strictly white and black, with shots of red and electric orange. Skirts heavily embroidered with natural raffia blossomed out from the hips, and horsehair underlayers gave narrow-waisted dresses a flaring shape, while the shoulders of jackets and coats came peaked or rounded and full through their three-quarter-length sleeves. The hem of a stiff denim jacket was pleated to create a bold peplum, and an off-the-shoulder dress was embellished with patch pockets at the hips. For evening, in contrast, Karan showed long, languid knit jersey dresses, knotted or twisted at the bust or waist for extra drape and made all the more eye-catching by their colors: shocking pink, acid yellow, and icy gray.