Just a few weeks ago, Issa founder Daniella Helayel announced her departure from the London-based label she founded, and Chloé alum Blue Farrier was installed as the new creative director. This year's Resort collection got lost in the middle of the changes, with neither designer available to speak about it.
A few quotes from the design team explained that this season was influenced by "the romantic, sun-drenched shores of Capri and the rich marine life of its tranquil sapphire seas." Helayel's work for Issa was grounded in her colorful Brazilian background, and that was still evident at times here. Many prints used what felt like every color of the rainbow: Some looked good; others, including an "under-the-sea" design resplendent with fish, coral, and the like more appropriate for Boca Raton than Capri, looked less so.
In 2011, retail royal Camilla Al Fayed took a 51 percent stake in Issa, urging its expansion by capitalizing on the support of Kate Middleton. That strategy will work for a while, but eventually people tire of a certain look—in this case, Middleton's favorite wrap dress, which featured heavily in the collection. It'll be interesting to see what Farrier brings to the table, and if she's able to maintain the brand's very specific DNA while moving it forward.