The Maison Martin Margiela Resort lineup emphasized new volumes—or lack thereof—with stripped-back silhouettes, often in disproportionate shapes. Built-in structures added interest to pieces like a tailored waistcoat that flowed into soft chiffon accordion pleats, or an ecru sheath dress with integrated bustier details shown over an extra-long-sleeve shirt that hid the hands, a motif that recurred throughout the collection. (Over-the-knee boots had similar second-skin appeal.)
Nothing was what it seemed, as is often the case at MMM. A standout jacket with precisely cut shoulders and back gave the illusion of a capelet, while lab coats (much like those worn by staff around the atelier), which looked white but were actually the palest shade of powder pink, featured embossed lapels and buttons or distressed trompe l'oeil paintings. Convertible pebbled leather "gourmette" bags, which came with cool, chunky
silver chain straps that could be considered shoulder jewelry, finished off this crisp, considered collection on a high note.