Osman Yousefzada has a taste for the dramatic. So it was something of a surprise—and a welcome one at that—to find him working in a down-to-earth mode this season. Yousefzada's modus operandi here was to translate his signature sculptural motifs into relatively casual looks, such as curved-hem crop tops that could be dressed up or down, or easy mid-calf skirts featuring his asymmetric draping. In general, Yousefzada relaxed his look by keeping things short or making them soft—to wit, the dragon brocade dress with its crisp A-line cut, or the white tank, with material draped off the hip, that had a structured effect but turned out on inspection to be a knit. Elsewhere, Yousefzada went casual by integrating sport elements such as track-bottom cinching.
There were a few too many ideas buzzing around this collection to make for a coherent statement—the pinstripe pieces looked good, for instance, but didn't seem to sit with the rest of the clothes—but the general direction was clear. And there were a few really strong pieces here, like those mid-calf skirts. They expressed the Osman point of view, non-operatically.