Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez nabbed the CFDA's Designer of the Year award on Monday night. For the third time in five years! But you won't catch this duo lying down on the job. At their Resort presentation today they were talking about changing their process. "Designers have become obsessed with heavy clothes," they said, chalking up the fixation on structure to the importance of static online imagery. "We wanted to let the clothes move." Going forward, the plan is to do less sketching (as has been their habit for the past decade) and more draping.
For Resort, a sunburst accordion-pleated skirt in a color-blocked cloque seersucker and a draped, A-line silk T-shirt top exemplified this newfound interest in movement, even if the round-shoulder jacket that topped them was a callback to Fall. Where last season had a ladylike politesse, the mood here felt looser, which is very much in keeping with the general direction of the collections this week so far. Men's pants slouched from the hip bones and pooled at the ankles. The skirt on their de rigueur skirt suit was emphatically A-line, where it would've tapered in the past. And an evening dress (beaded and sack-shaped vaguely à la the twenties) peeked imperfectly several inches below the hem of a zigzag tweed cocoon coat.
A pair of draped little black dresses offered a preview of Spring. They didn't hew to the same relaxed lines, but even if they were more rigorous in their fit, they still had that ineffable Proenza Schouler cool.