Reed Krakoff has a hit on his hands with his new mules. A riff on the traditional spa shoe, but with an elevated heel, they come not in French terry but in patent leather and PVC, matte crocodile, and even polished shagreen. You're likely to see a lot of them on the fashion set, which tends to turn the unlikeliest of shoes (think Céline's fur-lined Birks) into big things.
Krakoff credited Robert Motherwell's Open series for his lineup's color palette of icy blue, grass green, and chalk white. The artist's abstract seascapes and landscapes also apparently informed the draped, asymmetrical silhouettes—what Krakoff called the collection's new, more "aggressive femininity." In the end, though, this was less a departure than it was an evolution. The designer's familiar baseball tee was updated in perforated leather, and the sweatshirts were more shrunken and paired with tulip-skirted plongé-leather dresses. This time around, the python he uses every season came bleached, so that parts of the pattern seemed to almost disappear.
The freshest part of the mix were the tiny square prints hand-drawn by Krakoff to mimic the perforations on his leather pieces. These he used for a strapless, draped dress, as well as a shell top worn with an asymmetrical-hem skirt that reinforced the "softened geometry" idea that he was talking about. A perforated jacquard coat worn over a perforated leather skirt, on the other hand, took that idea a bit too far. For simplicity, you couldn't beat his weightless black dress with a V-neck front and back.