Tess Giberson being Tess Giberson, it came as no surprise to hear her
describe her Resort collection as "loosely based on the philosophy of the
Bauhaus—art, craft, and technology." But despite the conceptual
trappings, the clothes had plenty of unfussy appeal, like her hacked-off
bombers and blazers and a great, less-is-more jumpsuit.
As usual, Giberson is interested in the ways in which things are made.
The season's print—from which the collection's palette was derived—is a
watercolor, created by her husband, of weaving writ large. Sometimes this
interest in construction can seem tricky to a fault. Her "cardigans" and
dresses, for instance, don't button up the middle or the back but
actually drape twice over the head, creating double necklines and
effectively hanging off the wearer. But there was a simpler kind of
appeal in her spidery, macramé-inspired sweater and knits with gaping
cables: In effect, they say, "Someone knitted me." Giberson expressed
nostalgia for the days in which that person could have been her. "I have
this compulsion," she said. "I still have to touch them." To scratch the
itch, she hand-embroiders a few pieces every season—here, mesh tank tops
stitched with abstract webs.