"The underlying theme is always sportif," Thakoon Panichgul said about Addition, his secondary—though no longer smaller or sidelined—collection. Hearing the designer run through gym shorts, basketball tanks, and muscle tees left the lineup sounding rather sexless, but Panichgul has managed to make his sporty inspiration girly and even, in some cases, sexy. He'd been thinking, he said, of the Ur-sexy-athletic girl, Cindy Crawford, in her eighties and nineties heyday. But where she preferred to hug the curves, Thakoon injected volume. "It was about geometry and shape," he said at his showroom. "When I first started Addition, we did a lot of soft silk prints, but we're playing with our own language a bit more."
There's still softness, in the form of silk culottes that owe a debt to boxing shorts, sheer layers, and printed poplins (very Thakoony in the form of zip-up one-pieces). But it's balanced by more structure, with mini shorts in heather ponte jersey, embroidered bombers, and puffy faille tuxedo skirts. For the daring, he showed muscle-tee eveningwear: a sexy, jeweled sweater-vest fully open at the sides, worn with one of those skirts. The demure can layer. That, in itself, is part of the collection's M.O.: pile and layer, mix and match. Not for nothing, there was a profusion of trenchcoat-style dickeys and asymmetrical-hem sweaters made to be worn over swoop-tailed, oversize poplin shirts.