London-based brand Osman, designed by Osman Yousefzada, has established itself as a red-carpet star. During a Resort appointment at the Bowery Hotel this morning (Yousefzada's first in New York), the designer said that he's dressed between forty and fifty celebs this year. But judging by this latest outing, Yousefzada's talents go beyond camera-friendly eveningwear.
Inspired by his own doodles, as well as cultural cross-pollination (a recurring theme for Yousefzada, who was born in the U.K. to Afghan parents), Osman's Resort '15 comprised a well-rounded range of unfussy separates (feminine skirts and modest, easy tops), versatile dresses (like a black frock with a single cape sleeve and a diaphanous white maxi), sculptural gowns (an asymmetric black cutout style was particularly fetching), and outerwear. The best in that final category were a black cotton cape with subtle red scalloped pockets, and a cerulean kimono coat made from one piece of cashmere to avoid visually obtrusive shoulder seams.
Surrealism reappeared this season, most notably via a painterly print of clouds and vibrant turquoise-, lemon-, and cherry-hued doors. Color was also a focus, and popped in a series of paisley-printed silk brocade wares. A playful blue romper in this section struck a balance between old-world sophistication and modern-day fun.
Thanks to the positive market response Yousefzada's celebrity following has inspired, the designer has more room to experiment, hence his choice to present in New York, and a decision to introduce knitwear and shirting this time around. His first stab at those categories was a success. One pink silk button-down was actually a sweet little caplet-blouse hybrid—perfect to wear in a beachy breeze. The cardigans, meanwhile, incorporated subtle hints of the aforementioned prints—some navy sweaters, for example, were embroidered with beaded clouds. A sweet finishing touch, that.
It may sound like there was a lot going on here—and there was—but Yousefzada, whose collections are sometimes criticized for their tendency to overwhelm the senses, used his signature, clean lines as a unifying factor. That quality elevated simple black-and-white pieces and quieted his louder printed confections. With that in mind, the designer seems to have hit his stride, and if he stays this course, he'll no doubt continue to expand his following—celebrity and otherwise.