Since becoming TSE's creative director last year, Tina Lutz has brought a certain edge to the cashmere brand's refined basics. Her collections touch on unique inspirations, which she interprets with enthusiasm. This season found the designer fixated on BBC's The Blue Planet documentary series, which she regularly watches with her son. Lutz was particularly interested in bioluminescent creatures that live in the deepest, darkest parts of the ocean. "What they find down there is so unbelievable. It makes me realize how little we actually know about our world," she said at a Resort preview.
Lutz dove into her references in a literal way. Mirroring stringy jellyfish tentacles, fringe details were incorporated into several looks, for example, and clean T-shirts and Bermuda shorts featuring a delicate lace that was reminiscent of coral were also shown. Among the other plays on the underwater theme was a series of reef-printed pieces—including a silk tunic dress with a bubble-like drape in back. A portion of sales from each of those printed styles will be donated to The Ocean Cleanup foundation, which develops new technologies to eliminate large-scale plastic pollution.
On another socially conscious note, Lutz remains committed to working with female artisan collectives each season, and collaborated with the Swaziland-based Rosecraft group this time around on an open-weave scarf knitted from pure mohair. But aside from all those aquatic allusions and charitable goods, this collection was ultimately about beautiful, simple clothes. Highlights included lightweight toppers cut from pearl pink, double-face cashmere, ultrasoft chenille fisherman sweaters, slim tailored separates, and neoprene bonded velvet jackets.