Where in the world is Tsumori Chisato? If this question has a catchy ring to it, it also represents the unwavering fact that the designer thrives on travel to inspire her collections. Immediately following her Fall 2014 show in Paris, she headed to Greece, where the colors and imagery of Athens and the Aegean proved strong source material for her Resort offering. Schools of painted dolphins swam across floaty dresses and skirts and reappeared as a jacquard on a crisp yellow trench. Her trophy design was an openwork embroidered grouping that depicted a Greek village—Ionic columns, hilltop homes, waves, et al. Chisato, whose prints all originate from hand-drawn illustrations, outdid herself with this custom fabric. A white dress with its gauzy handkerchief pleats and layering of sun and dolphin appliqués offered the type of dreamy excuse to plan a trip somewhere off the grid.
Indeed, a large part of the collection embodied the now-debatable notion of Resort, and it was refreshing to find the Japanese designer unafraid to show summery sheaths and crocheted knitwear. In typical Chisato boldness, she also tagged some of her designs, cleverly cutting a skirt so that the hemline followed the undulating script of "love TC." It still holds true that Chisato's enthusiasm can get the better of her; the superhero motifs, for example, leaned more toward Marvel than mythological. And the knee-high gladiator sandals were too obvious—and past their prime. A folkloric capelet built into a white shirt looked finlike, which may have been the point; it was certainly original, if not exaggerated. But there were enough wearable options—a shirt-and-pant ensemble vertically striped in Aegean blue, the dolphin print in black on white on a full-sleeved blouson, geometric-patterned knit separates—that the collection did not drown in kitsch.