Gilles Rosier's collection for Kenzo was based on a
play between lightness and geometry. Fluid chiffon
dresses were dip-dyed and layered, chiffon ones
smocked and ruffled, while harder chocolate leather
skirts were embellished with graphic circular orange
insets. Rosier also delivered several unpretentious,
girly white dresses, trousers and wrap tops that will
be perfect for a day at the beach: Throw them over one
of his siren-inspired bathing suits.
Rosier is still on his way to modernizing Kenzo's
considerable legacy of mixing and matching diverse
cultural references. There were plenty of good pieces
in the collection, but many of them got lost in a sea
of repetition. The show would've gained strength if it
had been edited down to the essential looks.