This season, Yohji Yamamoto turned his attention to
suiting and drapingswathing and wrapping the body in
his unique, highly evolved manner.
His masculine take on pinstripes and black suits
consisted of strong-shouldered, side-fastening coat
jackets with long, asymmetric tails. Trousers were
loose and sometimes oversize: There was a huge-waisted
pair cinched at the hips, with excess fabric dangling
at the side. Fluid black dresses were gathered at the
side and featured a train that could be attached to
the wrist, the hem draping around the body.
Deceptively simple-looking columns had extra panels
that could become practical pockets; there was also a
sumptuously knit sweater, skirt and tote combo.
Experimentation is a given at any Yamamoto show, so it
was no surprise when fluid gowns appeared complete
with built-in bags. Some were cinched and attached to the
back of the dress, while others, strategically placed
on the side, became perfect hand warmers. The most
dazzling look: a flowing strap dress with a sequined
coin purse, complete with hardware clasp, resting at
the backthe perfect marriage between function and