Ann Demeulemeester has the rare ability to invest her punky, hard-edged
clothes with a lovely, lyrical quality.
Slouchy, low-slung trousers and oversize jackets have
always been part of the Demeulemeester repertoire, and
this season was no exceptiondone in black and white
silk, they looked the epitome of nonchalant chic. Draped
dresses, extra-short miniskirts, gathered-neck shirts
and wrap shirt-jackets were street-smart rather than
girly, cinched carelessly at the hips with
multiple-loop belts. Unstructured military
jackets, distressed leather coats, and
severe ankle boots rounded out the collection.
Demeulemeester deftly tackled this season's layering theme via a
series of belts that came with attached half-skirts. Worn over a short dress
or skirt, they create a silhouette that is asymmetric, anarchicand