Mixing romanticism, sex, and science, Helmut Lang's Spring 2002 collection
balanced flesh-baring cutouts and bondage-style harnesses with Great
Lang played hard and soft off against each other throughout the show.
Strappy body suits were worn under flapper-like dresses or paired with
pleated skirts; patent and metallic leather mingled with soft, sensual
materials including silk chiffon and even perch skin. The angular geometry
of pleats, v-necks and mirrored minaudières, meanwhile, was countered
by rounder, arched necklines and open-toed shoes.
Lang added vibrancy to a severe palette of black, white and gray via dashes
of deep red and purple, as well as prints designed in-house. One of these
featured wings; another, though it resembled leopard spots, was in fact a
rendering of biological cells.
Originally scheduled to be shown on the catwalk in Paris, Lang's collection
is instead being presented via the Internet, CD-ROM, lookbooks and showtapes
(echoing the designer's successful alternative show format of 1998). "I am
sure that everybody
will understand that I have to be in New York right now," Lang says.
"Presenting the Helmut Lang collection here is our way of supporting
business in New York."