More than a year after parting with its eponymous designer,
Jil Sander is still struggling to find its footing as
a world-class designer label.
Milan Vukmirovic, who was appointed creative director
of the house less than a year ago, provided a tepid
follow-up to his Fall debut. While there were several
perfectly proper, wearable piecesa great woven-leather coat, sharply cut blazers and a smart little
caftan dress with flat sandalsthe overall mood of the
show was that of a nonevent. Vukmirovic's leather
chemises and evening halter dresses, all in muted
tones, failed to convey a strong sense of emotion.
Successful minimalist design requires an extremely
precise sense of rigor, one that the Jil Sander design
team must carefully pinpoint in order to maintain
their status as a news-making brand.