Martine Sitbon draws on an eclectic mix of sources and has consistently
explored both feminized menswear and a vintage, flea-market aesthetic.
It was hardly surprising, then, when
antique-looking camisoles, washed denim skirts and
distressed ruffle dresses all turned up on her runway,
often coupled with mannish pinstripe blazers or vests.
While several individual pieces worked wellnotably
the ecru coats, aged suede jackets and slim
trousersthe overall effect of this collection was
one of frenetic aimlessness. Sitbon's
straightforward jabot dresses, Edwardian smocks and
velvet-trimmed bits of flounce slipped too easily into
the realm of kitsch. It's one thing to reference and
update the past, but quite another to look like you're
on your way to a costume party.