In the deconstructive '90s, glamour was a dirty word. But now there is a real thrill to be had in watching a rising generation reclaim the term as their own. Few are doing it better than the Belgian husband-and-wife team An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, who sent out a stellar collection that took '50s-flavored dressiness into exciting new territory.
A series of raincoats, in a range of colors from silver-and-white brocade to vivid red, shown with great cropped narrow pants and strappy silver heels, signaled A.F. Vandevorst's intent to make grown-up clothes cool again. That goal only became more appealing as the couple displayed a sequence of knee-length dresses, some with sunburst-pleat skirts, others flowing toga-style over one shoulder. The elegance was in the deceptive simplicity; setting aside theoretical tendencies, they cut to the chase with something as easy as a silver Lurex tank worn over a white T-shirt dress and cinched with a chrome dragon belt.
After superb combinations of white with ecru chiffon in sheer blouses and aprons, the pair came up with a pink silk floral fabricsomething between a '50s evening brocade and an Indian sariwhich they wrapped into bustiers and cut as a perfectly beautiful dress with twisted straps and a small flounce rippling to the hem. Now it's official: glamour is the new edge.