The glamazons were out in force at Dolce & Gabbana. Eva Herzigova, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Stephanie Seymour and Gisele Bündchen blasted into the room, walking proof that power-womanhood is not extinct on planet Fashion. And what do these ultra-women wear? Dolce & Gabbanawho are at their best when turning women into stars. This season's collection laid out the full repertoire.
The list of influences is rather disparateastronauts, Paco Rabanne, Sid Vicious, sailors and ancient Rome. Don’t worry too much about how all that hangs together. They were merely the channels for the line's enduring themes: curvaceous dresses, hourglass suits, masculine and feminine tailoring, amazing embellished coats and jeans.
The punk idea brought out S&M crisscross lacing in the satin corseted dresses, straps and buckles on trousers, a new oversize jacket in the house's signature mannish suits, and heavy studwork on leather jackets and bags. Space-age was a way to work silver (Milan’s current favorite) as zippered foil coats, jackets and pants, while M. Rabanne got a nod by way of jackets made from bands of chinchilla and chain mail. The most uplifting moment, though, was the sight of Ms. Seymour in a shirred, black jersey dress, looking like an 80s-era sex-on-legs goddess. It was just like old times, in more ways than one. The dress turned out to be Dolce & Gabbana’s ownvintage.