Hamish Morrows collection fulfilled all the promise of innovation and thrill that visitors to London hope for. In a concise and beautifully conceived show, he managed to combine a feeling for real sportswear, a sense of glamour, fantastic juxtapositions of color andrarest of alltruly original cutting.
The first outfit consisted of a jacket made of beige mackintosh fabric with raised inside-out seaming, its futuristic cut softened by an explosion of scallop-edged embroidered fabric at the front. He sustained that level of delight and surprise with glamorous pale bronze and purple satin dresses in loose, sporty cuts; interesting wrapped tailoring; and witty elements, like Lurex tank tops and neck pieces of huge, chunky crystal. One sparkling highlight was a heavily beaded T-shirt paired with lime-green running shorts.
Morrows confident touch even managed to turn the subject of bright, shiny printsoften used ironically on the London runwaysinto something that looked like a chic, avant-garde proposition. Tempered by his cool tailoring, the foil-Jacquard bombers and tailored jackets came across as wholly desirable, a leap of imagination rather than the usual tongue-in-cheek 80s reference.
Up to now, Morrows experimental shows have been confined to the realm of theory. But this collection, he promises, will actually make it to the retail floor. Once there, it will go a long way toward restoring Londons reputation as a leader in real design intelligence.