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This sculptured, futuristic/militaristic silhouette marches to a beat not heard since Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana stalked the eighties Paris runways. But there was more: Ghesquière followed his couturelike, neutral tailoring with short, flounced cutaway dresses in vivid colors and flower prints, delicately suspended over neoprene bras. A highly feminine conflation of his previous experiments with patchwork, some of these pieces were collages of powder-pink corsetry and fluted fuchsia chiffon, floating over, say, a lime-green bra. Others, in old-fashioned flower prints, ended in curly ruffles, weighted with zippers in the hems.
Whittled down to twenty-six outfits, this was a small but perfectly formed design statement. None of Balenciaga’s beloved pants and T-shirts made the edit, but hopes are high they’re somewhere in the back.