Posen’s whole silhouette eased up as he worked in lighter fabrics like charmeuse and chiffon, and in a classic pastel palette of lilac, petal pink, pale green, and shimmery gray. Skillful tailoring showed up in short jackets artfully seamed to curve in at the waist, and a delicate touch was apparent in pieces like a halter dress suspended from a single, thin twist of fabric. Still in evidence were handkerchief-point hems on a few short dresses and skirts, as well as a few of his signature mitre-stripe gowns. It’s clear that Posen has been taking notes during his many appearances on the social circuit: His eveningwear, like a silvery sequined dress or a flame-red chiffon gown, will certainly delight the cocktail-and-gala crowd. And indeed, the whole show had a distinct sparkle, thanks to the $30 million worth of Harry Winston gems (on loan, of course) the models were sporting.
Lest his audience might think he’d lost his costume-y sense of humor, Posen also sent out two dangerously flammable outfits made from raffia—inspired, perhaps, by the wild Philip Treacy wigs on show at Manolo Blahnik’s current New York exhibit.