Looking gloss-lipped and makeup-free, and with their blown-out hair whipping behind them, Donatella Versace's women made a brisk, clean, confidently polished entry into spring. Whatever the seasonal notionthe program notes insisted there was an "underwater" inspirationthe most vital point to bubble up from this presentation was its focus. This was Versace concentrating on what she and the house have always done best: sexy, draped jersey dressing, racily classic pantsuits, and red-carpet paparazzi stoppers.
Casting her mind back to her brother Gianni's heyday, Donatella revived the bold, multicolored silk scarf prints that he used chiefly to make into shirts. For spring, she reframed them with vivid coral patternsnot just for shirts, but also for playful leather-trimmed bags and deep-pile terry dressing gowns (excellent ammo for maximum poolside impact).
For the most partsave a couple of meandersthis was a high-powered performance that retrieved something of the force of the old Versace days. Dropping the eternal rock-chick stance in favor of a more reserved, upscale womanliness isat least for the momentlooking like a good way to go.