In recent years, we've come to understand Italian secondary lines as collections with clear focuses of their own. That's the confusion in this Emporio Armani spring showthe sheer volume of details and options on the runway got in the way of any connecting line of thought.
It started with little black-and-white jackets, shown with sheer skirts worn over knee shorts. From there, it was onto soft crepe skirtsuits with flyaway satin frills, then ruffle-edged cropped pants, followed by striped T-shirts and taffeta sailor trousers. After these came various short, leather and suede jackets, some in pastels with satin ribbon binding and pouch-pocket pants, and then a sudden riff on accordion-pleated wrapped skirts. The effectbefore the bugle-beaded eveningwear began to appearwas of a bemusingly random selection from what is obviously a huge commercial line. It's a pity that it distracted from the legendary strength of Giorgio Armani's rigorous, minimalist hand. If he stripped back on detail, allowed the bones of his classics to shineand showed lessit would give his presentation far greater impact.