This season, Pilati brought a new lightness to his intense interest in surface detail. He compressed the idea of black mantilla lace into spidery-fine trompe l'oeil embroidery that covered a crisp white pencil skirt, and traced the shoulder and neckline of a sheer organdy blouse. Chiffon pompoms bobbled along the flanks of skirts and the edges of the bride's slim white cape, and even some of the bags caught the aerated moodlittle boxes made of filigree metal in a Moorish screen pattern. If there was any remaining doubt about the attraction of Pilati's rigorous look, it was comprehensively countermanded by the gathering of fans who had turned up wearing his extreme platformsthe runaway hit of YSL's fall collection. Judging by the chat in the excited crowd afterward, the lines for his bold Dada-moderne shoes are already forming.