In the London arena of newborn talent, it's hard to refrain from the gladiatorial treatmentthumbs up, thumbs downof young designers. Those who know where they're going straight out the gate are rare indeed. And the rush to judgment is especially hard on a pair who are only dipping their feet into their second seasonand whose aesthetic, like Fiona Sinha and Aleksandar Stanic's, is particularly subtle.
Their collection disconcerts, not because of the usual shock tactics, but the opposite: For a couple of twentysomethings, it's almost precociously grown-up. Opening with a loose white shirt, narrow, papery white pants, and flat, monkish white leather sandals, the pair set out a low-key agenda of soft, sporty minimalism. Their look combines neat trenches (a persistent London theme), jersey dresses gently wrapped to an Empire shape, and others in double layers of café au lait tulle.
There was nothing to argue with here, but there was nothing to surprise and delight, either, which is understandable if Sinha-Stanic is trying to hit upon a nonscary sort of commerciality. Seen on a rail, their clothes radiate woman-friendly wearability; projecting that into a show is altogether trickier. What they need to make clear next season is that they're not heading toward a zone in the marketplace that's so safe it's boring.