There's usually at least a nodding acquaintance between Miu Miu and the
main Prada line, but this season the two collections couldn't have been more different. That was
Miuccia Prada's way of addressing the dueling directions in which she sees civilization going.
If the Prada collection reflected a techno-dominated cybersociety, she
imagined Miu Miu at the forefront of a back-to-nature survivalist ethos.
The show certainly projected a desert island vibe, from the reggae on
the sound track to the worn, sun-bleached fabrics and the mostly subtle hints
of ethnic dressing (the overtness of an electric-blue sarong pant was the
exception not the rule). The designer, who wore a sunshine-yellow dress
for her final bow, claimed she wanted to convey the notion of people making
do with what our society might leave behind, which accounted for the
patchwork shirts, the raggedy-hemmed tops, and the headgear, a cap and do-rag
Still, this brand of survivalism wasn't all about roughing it.
High-buttoning jackets and paperbag-waisted trousers suggested desert
island disco (or at least one of those New Wave fashion moments that
Miu Miuboth the woman and the labeldelights in). And a linen shorts suit
would make any nature boy look chic.