¿I did soft,¿ said Sophia Kokosalaki. ¿I was looking at Vogue photographs by Javier Vallhonrat and Paolo Roversi from the eighties. I liked their saturated color and romanticism. Everyone thinks the eighties were so virulent, but there was another, beautiful side people are overlooking.¿ First, though, this young, independent Greek designer had to fight not to get overlooked herself. Sandwiched between Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino, she helplessly waited an hour for 12 models to show, a delay that sorely tested her audience's patience.
When it finally started, the collection was a more refined rendition of Kokosalaki¿s signature combination of intensely worked draped dresses and modern tailoring. The promised softness was in the pliant, wavily worked Grecian pleating in the high-waisted bodices (she¿s wisely thrown out the padded understructures). These bloomed into short organza skirts. The tailored piecesbelted safari jackets with balloon sleeves and rolled-cuff shortsalso took on a slouchier, sportier ease. Shots of neon green put a London-club spike in the palette of muted ecrus, metallics, oranges, and browns. Styling it all with flat cross-laced sandals and gladiator boots, she brought together a personal look that deserves a better airing than in the difficult crevice the schedule forced on her.