"Blue skies, smiling at me, nothing but blue skies
" Irving Berlin's golden oldie anticipated the dominant color on the men's catwalks for Spring 2008, and the joie de vivre he was describing when he penned the lyric seems to be have infected the seasonfirst in Milan, and now Paris. Paul Helbers, Marc Jacobs' menswear maestro at Louis Vuitton, launched the label's latest presentation with a passage that was cheery blue, from cap to carryall.
The show was called "Moon Beach"picture a sci-fi dream of a fin de siècle summer in Biarritz and you're somewhere close to its distinctive blend of high tech and soft touch. Helbers and his team have been experimenting with cut, and their efforts produced something they called a "spiral," an innovation that looked like a diamond patchwork on jackets and waistcoats. There was also a "parasol cut," which apparently folds like an umbrella around the body. It was particularly spectacular in the sun ray of colors in a nylon blouson, over which had been laid a transparent veil (not the first time the veil has appeared this seasonpaging Doctor Freud). The sci-fi-ish elements were most obvious in the silvered fabric of a trench and a jacket with a holographic shimmer, but this was countered by clothes with dégradé hems and seams. They looked luxuriously weather-beaten. In fact, the whole affair was imbued with a sense of easy, lived-in luxury. Accessory note: In a season of sandals, Vuitton has the sandals of the season.