Laing is a designer with an architect's sensibility, and his clothes sheath the body in sweeping planes and facets constructed with the technical precision of a blueprint. This season, his third, he cited
"apparitions of light" as his inspiration: fireworks, the northern lights, and lens flares (the enigmatic flashes accidentally captured sometimes in photographs). Those are some pretty ephemeral effects to tease out of fabric and thread, and the only reference obvious enough to be picked up on by the naked eye was the pyrotechnic one: a spectacular fireworks print created by the artist Karen Azoulay.
Whether or not Laing's luminous conceits were tangibly interpreted, the clothes looked great. The designer worked those structured folds to clever effect, creating both slim and voluminous silhouettes out of the high-tech fabrics he loves. "Wedges" folded into the back seaming of a dress were wrapped around to the front, magically inverting to create a horizontal ruffle across the bodice. A deep, asymmetrical fold was slashed across the length of a belted sack dress, leaving one side tented and the other slim as a blade of grass. For a softer air, Laing cut the same shapes from washed silk, in light gray, butter yellow, and midnight blue.