This was Graeme Black's last collection for Salvatore Ferragamo; he¿s leaving to devote himself to his solo line. To be fair, setting a ready-to-wear direction for a label best known for its grosgrain ribbon flats is no easy task. But hopscotching back through the decadesas Black had tended to do during his tenureprobably wasn't the best tack.
For Spring, he seized on the seventies. Mixed in with the more restrained Me Decade pieces (high-waisted, wide-legged trousers and flaring A-line skirts) were Halston jersey dresses, beachy caftans, and jumpsuits, the last in wide navy-and-white stripes or disco sequins.
The show was not without its better moments. Floor-grazing sheer shirtdresses had stature, and the turquoise stone strap of a finale gown was a rich touch. But here's hoping that when Cristina Ortiz steps into the driver's seat, she pushes Ferragamo further forward. The clothes could stand to be more distinctive, more than simply a backdrop for handbags and shoes. Perhaps she can zero in on the luxury factor, like Tomas Maier has done at Bottega Veneta (which not so long ago, you'll recall, was little more than an accessories company with a specialty in woven leather bags).