The current economic climate does not make it easy to grow a high-end label, so it's wise of former Y & Kei designer Hanii Yoon to instead focus her efforts on contemporary line Hanii Y. Now based in New York City, Yoon drew inspiration for the current season from the white summer nights of Denmark, a disorienting phenomenon that, in her mind, led to a blurring between light and dark, reality and dreams. This translated into a sporty but refined collection of folded-pleat skirts (in gauze and printed cotton) and short-sleeved coatsa leather trench and puff-sleeve cotton car coat were both strong. The blurring also took the form of a masculine/feminine play-off, which worked well in a thick cotton anorak with matching Bermuda shorts, but fell short in the form of a tuxedo jacket with organza sleeves. Now that it has Yoon's complete attention, there's no reason Hanii Y shouldn't continue to prosper.