Sophia Kokosalaki's instinct for steering her talent according to the mood is a sure one. Where last season she was rocking her own version of epauletted glam biker leather with the best of them, this time she intuited the fact that something gentler, creamier, and breezier was needed. It's a credit to her that she carried it off without a lurch: All she did was tune in to the serene side of her Greek sensibility to find a personal route into pleating, draping, and a delicate palette of barely-there color.
Kokosalaki's appeal as a woman designing for women is that she can pull off a young interpretation of "feminine" without being cloyingly girly. Her plissé dresses—including one in vertical pleats with sheer, flippy under-layers—and a pristine white pique shirt with shorts looked fresh, with a kick of sophistication provided by elaborate cross-laced shoes. (They had started on the drawing board as Greek sandals and ended up with sculptural "draped" copper heels.) Where Kokosalaki really scores, though, is in her sensitive but sexy evening constructs of crinkled silk and draped netting: dresses that turn to show beautiful back views of knotted tulle on bare skin. To end, she added a section of thorn-embroidered flyaway white chiffon dresses that had the cool edge her fans love.