The question at Diane von Furstenberg this afternoon was how the appearance of Yvan Mispelaere as the designer's new wingman would change the look of the collection. In a word, or three, for the better. The Frenchman most recently headed up the women's design studio at Gucci, and earlier this decade he worked under Phoebe Philo at Chloé. (Yes, he served the Special One.) Today's collection wasn't necessarily more European, but there was a noticeable new polish. Signature DVF, but magnified—prints were more major, and colors simultaneously bolder and more subtle. And because they dubbed it Goddess—not after Diane herself, but after an Isadora Duncan retrospective they saw together in Paris—draping was a recurring motif.
Tailoring, however, was the collection's strong suit. Highlights came in the form of a navy pantsuit shown with a lemon yellow shirt and a sky blue belt; a rust silk blouse matched with turquoise pants and a blush pink belt; a loose-fitting coral top teamed with a violet knee-length skirt. Draping entered the picture via a flowing white caftan slung loosely with a thin gold belt, and sleeveless hooded jumpsuits that wouldn't make bad cover-ups on a sailing trip through the Greek Islands. One came in purple silk, another aswirl with peach, marigold, white, and black.
The sense of sophistication carried through to the accessories and styling. For starters, you didn't see any of the distracting floral headdresses trailing ribbons that you did a season or two ago. Bags, for the most part, hewed to the smaller and more streamlined.
Von Furstenberg raised her hands in the air for their victory lap. She seemed justifiably pleased with the results of their new partnership.