Anyone who attended Max and Lubov Azria's two other shows—Max Azria and BCBG Max Azria—earlier this week must have been grateful today that the designing couple didn't try for a stripped-down, minimalist trifecta with Hervé Léger. (That stuff is pretty, but it has its limits.)
Instead, the Azrias poured the cream and pink world of lingerie, lace, and corseting into the strict framework of their bandage dress. The vision had strains of a modern-day Marie Antoinette, the reference drummed into your head by Siouxsie and the Banshees' "Hong Kong Garden" from Sofia Coppola's film repeating on the soundtrack. It was also overt on the runway: There were abbreviated bustle dresses with modern panniers, and the last grouping featured ribbon-woven corsets—new ground for this label.
The bondage nature of the bandage dress is already a naughty enough foil to the froth of the Queen of Fashion, but that element was furthered in lasered leather and printed rubber (both with lace motifs) and tiny grommets that traced the seaming on body-hugging shifts. It's not easy to maintain a sense of newness in a label with such strict parameters, but the Azrias managed it nicely with this collection.