Every morning, Jeremy Laing wakes to flags waving at him from the office building across the street, and the sight of so much fluttering fabric sparked Spring's design process. Laing isn't much for flutter, per se; he prefers sharp lines, geometric figures, and a stark palette, and this collection combined an air of flaglike loftiness with his signature angularity. Digital prints have been a focus for the past few seasons, but there were no prints today, save for one of a rose. (The image had a sentimental pull: It was based on a flower Laing laid on his grandmother's coffin earlier this year.) In lieu of edgy graphics, he created interest through texture and draping. Many of the pieces could not only be worn in multiple ways but would look quite different depending on the wearer. It was an accomplished, sexy outing. The prints weren't missed.
Chain-link linen lace could have been mistaken for twisted copper, but it crinkled in your hand. A long skirt in the stuff was layered over a sleek bodysuit for a refreshing take on the sheer trend, and a finer version in black net was pieced alongside fluid satin in body-clinging, paneled dresses. A few dresses and skirts doubled back on themselves at the hem—one long rectangle of fabric tunneling back up to the shoulder. It could have been gimmicky, but it was subtly done. Another possible sticking point were the "trapped" dresses, as Laing named them in the liner notes. Shimmering, one-sleeved goddess dresses were contained below the waist by separate, small leather minis—really too small to be skirts in their own right. The curvier among us might not want to chance it, but it worked on the runway: underwear-as-outerwear meets the layering trend. A viscose jersey dress in black with one long, draped arm and a slit up the side didn't have a single extra, but it swooped and clung in all the right places.